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Anonymous
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New bloke looking for answers

Hello all,
Just joined as i'm looking to trawl through old posts trying to find out why my 1981 CF 2300 petrol temp guage goes into the red after 2mins and bottom of the rad is cold.
Looking forward to it as it will stop me watching cr*p on tv and give me something constructive to do.

JB.

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Sat 25 Aug 2012 @ 21:14 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anonymous
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hi, welcome to the fold.

2 things i would check / change first would be the stat, just incase its stopped opening and the rad cap, if the spring has lost its springyness the cap will not hold pressure. As yet i have not had any cooling probs on my 2.3 slant. But i did have these issues on a essex v6. turned out to be a mixture of a faulty stat and the cap had worn out.

Worth checking anyhow.

Some one will be along later with a "propper" answer im sure :)

Regards
Gaz
Sun 26 Aug 2012 @ 00:37 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anonymous
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Hi JB You will probably find that the reason for the temp gauge going into the red after 2 mins is that the stat hasn't yet opened mine used to do the same, providing it comes down to 3/4 when you carry on its quite normal for the CF 2.3 slant. I myself tow a caravan so I opted for an 88 degrees stat it still goes into the red on long hills but I am not losing any water so its fine.
Dave

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Sun 26 Aug 2012 @ 07:44 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anonymous
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Thanks for the replies chaps.

Stat SEEMS to be working as you can feel the rad top get hot all of a sudden.
I have flushed the syatem with cold water and its still the same.
I'm beginning to wonder if the water pump is just not pumping the water around properly - rotted away maybe?
The bottom hose is not even warm as the top is hot. The needle goes into the red after about 2mins and only ever comes down to the bottom of the red when its motoring or idleing.
I know she's not boiling over and doesn't appear dangerously high even though the guage says it is. She still seems to run fine.
I don't mind changing the water pump if it will cure it but from what i've read so far on here its possibly not going to change anything.
There is no water coming from the overflow so i assume the pressure cap is doing its job, fan belt tension seem fine.
I want to get it sorted as its really putting me off driving with one eye on the temp guage.
I can cope with the temp rising on a run, climbing hills so long as it goes back down a bit.
It just seems to me like the water is not flowing around the system as it should.

What preesure should the rad cap be?
JB.
Sun 26 Aug 2012 @ 10:35 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anonymous
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hi JB welcome to the best Bedford sit on the net. The temp guage mite have a fault or even the wiring, normally a dirty or loose connection. Flushing with water does not always clean all the grud out.
Richard & Judy

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Sun 26 Aug 2012 @ 16:09 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anonymous
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UPDATE

Right then,

I've done a bit more flushing of the system ( not a lot of anything came out) but also fitted my old fresh water 12v pump in place of the heater (bypassing the heater all together).

With this in place (constantly running) the whole system warms up. The needle still reaches the red after about 4mins now but then at least it settles back down to just below.

From this i am thinking its got to be the water pump not working as it should or all silted up inside the engine between the cylinders resrticting the flow.

Does anyone agree with my half baked theory?


JB.
Wed 29 Aug 2012 @ 14:58 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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JB it could be an airlock in the water system, you putting the fresh water pump in the system would force the air out. I would connect it back up as it should be and then after running engine for a couple of minutes slacken the heater hose to get the air out, a good test is to make sure the heater is blowing hot air out, Ive had this problem myself in the past and that was the problem.
Dave

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Thu 30 Aug 2012 @ 07:08 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anonymous
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Well so far i've:
flushed the system (several times)
Changed the thermostat (tested the new one before fitting to make sure it worked)
Flushed the radiator on its own
Changed the water pump
Changed the sender
Made sure that every time i fill the system i fill completely (finishing off by filling through the heater pipe)

I'm at the stage now where the system seems to be working as it should but temp is still in red and stays there. Bottom hose does get warm not hot.
I tried different gauges from various old cars at the weekend (Rover, Ford, Vauxhall 60's 70's and 80's) and found that with ALL of the others the temp was high but never in the red or at the max.

I have now fitted a Smiths gauge that sits just under the max.
I now know the system is as good as i can get it so i'll just keep one eye on the gauge and one eye on the road.

NEXT job, strip down and refurb the 34 ict weber carb.....

JB.

Sun 09 Sep 2012 @ 20:22 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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