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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
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 Wed 06 Jan 2010 @ 17:33
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Acherly, it's one engine out of two - block, pistons & rods & main bearing caps from Skoota's old smoky rattler with crankshaft & bearings from Char's cooked engine; added ingredients 1 set piston rings + bores hone, gasket conversion set & glue. And it's paint brush cleaner, not paint stripper; there's a bit of difference between white spirit base solvent with emulsifier & methylene chloride! Overalls are green now, my winter ones that are 3 sizes too big so that I can get them on & off over lots of layers of insulation... Gearbox install pics etc. will follow shortly. ---------------------- |
Wed 06 Jan 2010 @ 21:08
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
This is an INCREDIBLE piece of writing Phil: thank-you very much for documenting all the work. You cannot believe how useful this is going to be when I get on to dealing with the strip-down and rebuild of the Bedouin.... Once again - I raise a glass to you Phil..... regards Carl |
Sat 09 Jan 2010 @ 09:54
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Hi Phil, I have rebuilt many engine's in my time since serving my apprenticeship in the fifties,so i have been following this blog with great interest.The detail and Knowledge not withstanding the thoroughness of care that has gone into this rebuild is incredible bearing in mind that cost was also important I take my Hat off to you. Maybe, no I am certain that many people in the future will look at this blog and see how a job can be done properly without having to spend thousands of pounds. Once again Phil I thank you for taking the time to document this and allowing us to see a proper Motor Engineer at work. Regards David. A Scot Lost in the Valley's. |
Sat 09 Jan 2010 @ 23:51
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Here, here, I totally agree with David: a credit to yourself & the club Rae & Ann ---------------------- |
Sat 09 Jan 2010 @ 23:54
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Thanks guys & to pick up on Rae's comment about the club the cheaper build wouldn't have been possible without Skoota's old engine, for which I'm ever so grateful. Also a plug for Colin Birch: he's having a look at making the thread load faster, work that largely may be taken for granted along with all the rest in maintaining the site yet needs applauding all the same. ---------------------- |
Sun 10 Jan 2010 @ 00:17
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
The work and support Phil gives us all is so reassuring and I feel that if ever we needed to do a similar job on our wagon, if we didn't tackle the job ourselves, at least we could take these details to a fairly competent mechanic and they would have no excuse but to do a damn good job! All this input ensures the longevity of our vans and our club. ---------------------- |
Sun 10 Jan 2010 @ 10:53
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Great to see a detailed and competent rebuild filled with tips, instead of an increasingly common solution of squeezing in a modern transit, frontera or v8 engine. However, I suppose there is a place for that as parts increase in price... such as £3?? piston sets. Its worth the wait on a slow computer. 
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Sun 10 Jan 2010 @ 12:38
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
New pistons aren't the only answer; cylinder blocks are rebored & honed to piston size so serviceable oversize pistons from a smoky 'scrap' engine would do for saving one that's less worn. (It was just sheer luck that Skoota's old engine honed up just within limits for the original pistons + new rings.) ---------------------- |
Sun 10 Jan 2010 @ 21:53
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Propellor shaft Propellor shaft rear section had lumpy universal joints that refused to ease off when greased & the yokes were thumped with a mallet (1kg rubber one is good for this) so new ones were fitted (Quinton Hazell QL2104).
First thing to do is mark the shaft & yokes so that they can be kept aligned the same way when new joints fitted. Trick when removing rusted-in circlips is to scrub the rust off, apply some easing oil then, with a tube or socket that fits well on the circlip, thump it to shock it in its groove. Once tapping a narrow point centre punch in circlip eyes will move the ends of the circlip inwards keep working at it until the circlip will spin in its groove. Then circlip pliers can be used to extract the circlip without being overloaded & slipping from the clip. When all the circlips are out the joint can be removed; I've always found it easier to remove the splined & flange yokes with their joints from the shaft by thumping the shaft yokes to shift the bearing cups, then work on the yokes separately in a vice, clamping across the journal while thumping the yoke to shift the remaining bearing cups. Most worn journal was the front one but the rear one wasn't as good as it should be - wear pattern could be felt with the fingertips although it was hard to see without me specs on. (I thought I had some pics of this bit but I seemed to have copied later ones over them, probably because I forgot that the camera loses the plot sometimes & resets file names. Rats.) Fitting new universal joint - 
Yokes need to be clean, especially the circlip grooves. Another trick: once the joint & one bearing cup is fitted, press the cup into the yoke past the circlip groove plus a few mm so that the opposite cup can be fitted more easily wuth the journal mid-way between the cups then press in the second cup until the journal will stay put. Fit the first circlip & carry on pressing until the first cup meets its circlip (middle pic above), then fit the second circlip. Circlips can be fitted either way up - they have a rounded edge one side & square edge on the other - & whichever is easiest for pliers used will do provided circlips expand properly to full engagement of their thickness in the grooves. Any circlip with ends closer together than other circlips needs sorting or it could spring out. Usually a tap or two with a punch will make it snap home in the groove but if it doesn't then the cup might need pressing in a tiny bit more. When all 4 circlips are in any tightness in the joint will ease off if the yokes are bumped over the bearing cups with a mallet. Finished - 
Grease nipples are 5/16" across the flats & a 1/4" drive socket makes fitting them a bit easier than with a spanner; they have taper threads so will go tight with some thread still showing. Universal joints can be filled with grease (to just swell rubber seals on the bearing cups) before fitting but the spline sleeve is best greased when the propellor shaft is back on the van - excess squirts out from a hole in the cap in the yoke. ---------------------- |
Sun 10 Jan 2010 @ 23:32
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Transmission refit First thing that was fitted was the clutch spigot bearing, removed & cleaned before building the short motor then packed with grease but left out until now so that it stayed clean.Removal requires a slide hammer puller with a collet that fits through the bearing & expands to grip the bearing shell: Sykes-Pickavant one - 
Bearing is rarely a tight fit & can be refitted using a tube or socket; bearing is fitted rounded end first and an extra blob of grease once it's fitted doesn't go amiss. Flywheel fits one way round only on the crankshaft dowels, when all the bolts will fit - 
Bolts are 3/8" UNF high tensile precision type, 7/8" long with 11/16" AF heads. Threadlocker (Loctite 243) should be used on the threads; tightening torque is 48 lbft (66 Nm). Clutch housing locating dowels go in; leaving them out until now allows any crud that has got in the cylinder block threads to be cleaned out before fitting the gearbox. Dowels are steel, 0.595" outside diameter, 0.665" long, 0.065" wall thickness. 15mm copper plumbing tube can make a good substitute for missing dowels; they must be replaced in order to obtain correct alignment of the gearbox with the engine when it's being fitted, or the gearbox front bearing can be worn out well before its time. Clutch is best fitted using an aligning tool; this one is a metric type but just happened to fit nicely - 
Clutch plate needs holding in position while the cover is positioned on the flywheel dowels & it's a bit of a fiddle due to the weight of the pressure plate & angle of the engine. A way to overcome this is to loosely fit the bolts then align the clutch plate before gradually tightening the bolts to pull the pressure plate onto the flywheel dowels. Once the centre plate is gripped by the pressure plate bolt tightening should be even across the pressure plate to avoid cracking the diaphragm spring as it pulls flat. Clutch bolts are 5/16" UNC, 3/4" long with 1/2" AF heads. Washers are rectangular section spring lock type. Tightening torque is 15 lbft (20 Nm). While this was going on the apprentice cleaned the gearbox - 
Paint brush cleaner used to good effect; it washes off with water with some washing up liquid in it. Gear lever fitted to prevent anything getting inside; it's held in with a sprung bayonet cap. Clutch release bearing was smooth and tight so it had just a wipe to clean it. With grease inside the sleeve filling the groove within the bearing it slides onto the gearbox sleeve & the clutch fork is inserted into its aperture in the clutch housing - 
Then the clutch fork is pushed far enough through the aperture so that it can be engaged in the bearing slot and pushed onto the ball pin while ensuring that both sides of the spring clip engage underneath the head of the ball pin - 
Ball pin & clutch fork pegs that engage in the bearing should be greased before assembly. Provided the spring clip isn't damaged the fork usually clicks in place. The square end of the gearbox input shaft is unusual; normally the end is chamfered to make entry into the spigot bearing a bit easier. Hmm. I didn't like the idea of trying to align this gearbox while supporting it from underneath so it got slung from an engine support beam minus the end fittings with its screw poked through the gear lever aperture in the cab floor; wooden blocks against the seat bases kept the beam from sliding backwards. With the gearbox lifted & suspended so, top gear engaged to be able to rotate the clutch shaft using the rear drive flange, it went in without a fight once it engaged in the clutch. A longer clutch housing bolt was loosely fitted in one of the upper holes to align the clutch housing with the cylinder block dowels. Once the clutch housing met the dowels it meant that the gearbox spigot was well in its bearing & all the bolts could be fitted & tightened. A tip here if the clutch isn't aligned just right: once the 2 longer bolts can be fitted in upper clutch housing holes (without their washers if need be) and are just nipped up keeping an even gap between the clutch housing & cylinder block faces the clutch fork can be levered backwards to release the clutch plate, when the gearbox should then go in up to the cylinder block dowels & all the bolts can be fitted where they should be & tightened. Gearbox in place with rear mounting & cross member fitted (mounting loosely at this stage) - 
The 2 longer bolts fit in the lower clutch housing holes with dowels in (applies to all slant engines regardless of gearbox type). Bolts are 7/16" UNF with 5/8" AF heads. 2 longer bolts are 1.71" long; 3 shorter bolts are 1.2" long. Tightening torque is 30 lb ft (40 Nm). Rear mounting & cross member fixings - 
Where they go - 
With the cross member hanging from the rear mounting (ZF 5-speed fitment as in the photo) it's usually obvious which of the holes in the chassis where the cross member bolts should go in ... unless the left hand side engine mounting is shot. For chassis brackets with 7 holes it's the 3rd & 5th holes from the front; on Char's the cross member was one hole too far back before the engine came out & the rear mounting 3/8" stud was in the wrong hole... Thin fibre washers for the cross member bolts are to keep bolts, bushes & washers in place on the cross member while fitting it; the washers should grip the bolt threads enough to do this but if they're tired or missing then a Royal Mail red rubber band across each pair of bolts will do. If any of the large steel washers are missing then they must be replaced; B&Q repair washers for 10mm bolts will do. Bolts must be tightened until the sleeves are trapped between top & bottom washers and no more - the bushes will be sufficiently compressed - after which the lock tabs can be turned up against the flats of the bolts. 3/8" bolts & nut are 9/16" AF; 5/16" nuts are 1/2" AF. Clutch relay lever, exploded view - 
Early pattern castle nut & split pin holding the relay lever on the bracket pin was replaced by a nyloc nut about 1978. Thackeray washer is to prevent the push rod from twisting during clutch operation. Adjuster ball nut is 13/16" AF; locknut is 1/2" AF; pushrod thread is 5/16" UNF. Clutch housing front splash plate needs fitting loosely before fitting the relay lever bracket - 
Plate can be held in place by the 3 shorter bolts while relay lever bracket is fitted. Bolts are 3/8" UNC with 9/16" heads. Clutch relay lever & bracket fitted - 
Gearbox oil level needs checking when the van is level; seeing as it's parked on a slope this will have to wait until the engine is running. Clutch adjustment: 0.1" (2.5mm) clearance between ball nut and clutch fork. Best to set adjustment co  ly then dance on the clutch pedal to settle the cable outer ferrule in the relay lever bracket, then adjust properly. Char's clutch fork spring was a bit tired & loose so the front bracket was fitted twisted 90 degree to exert some pull on the fork to prevent it from rattling.
Last transmission bits, speedometer drive cable & propellor shaft - 
Unlike Vauxhall gearboxes the speedo drive seal is tight within the drive housing so can't be lost. Speedo cable run should have no kinks or sharp bends in it. The reverse light switch wasn't connected but if it works then it won't take much to wire in reverse lamps; there might be wiring in the harness already with a bit of luck. Once the front flange is loosely held on the gearbox with 1 or 2 bolts the centre bearing can be bolted to the chassis bracket (1/2" UNF bolts, 1" long with flat washers & nyloc nuts, nuts & bolt heads 3/4" AF) - 
When the front section is on tight the rear section can be fitted so that the front yoke is in line with the front section front yoke as far as the splines allow. Rear section fitted - 
Like the front section, bolt heads face the front of the van (they work loose less often this way around) & new nyloc nuts have been fitted. Propellor shaft flange bolts are 3/8" UNF, 1.2" long; nuts are P-type (precision) nyloc; nuts & bolt heads are 9/16" AF. Bolts are best tightened diametrically & final tightening by turning the bolt with a ring spanner while holding the nut still gets things tighter without damaging the nut through spanner slip. A slobber of grease on the cleaned-up sleeve to deter corrosion & a grease gun on the sliding sleeve nipple finishes off: from dry the sleeve needs to be filled until grease issues from the small hole in the cap facing the universal joint. Thereafter a few pumps every time the universal joints are lubricated usually is enough Exhaust is the last thing to fit from underneath for the refit but that can't be done until the cylinder head is fitted. ---------------------- |
Mon 11 Jan 2010 @ 22:26
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Has the van been jacked up or put on a ramp during the re-furb? ---------------------- |
Tue 12 Jan 2010 @ 07:26
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Van jacked up at the front, stands under the bottom wishbone fulcrum pins, for the underneath work. ---------------------- |
Tue 12 Jan 2010 @ 08:33
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bonouk1 Member Posts : 314 Location : merthyr tydfil s.wales Status : Offline 
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when will you be turning the key now phil? bono |
Tue 12 Jan 2010 @ 09:01
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Cylinder head has to come back from the machine shop yet (this week hopefully) & then the camshaft needs setting up for the valve stem protrusions changing a bit after which a day should see the engine running, but that may be after Margrae's little problem is sorted. ---------------------- |
Tue 12 Jan 2010 @ 23:26
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Would you be able to do a video of the great 'turn on'? I would love to hear what a proper job sounds like! ---------------------- |
Wed 13 Jan 2010 @ 07:16
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bonouk1 Member Posts : 314 Location : merthyr tydfil s.wales Status : Offline
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thats what i asked too ,lol |
Wed 13 Jan 2010 @ 09:48
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
I think we should all make a day trip to the event  no pressure eh Phil - sorry 
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Wed 13 Jan 2010 @ 10:16
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bonouk1 Member Posts : 314 Location : merthyr tydfil s.wales Status : Offline
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yeah that would be great lmao bono |
Wed 13 Jan 2010 @ 10:49
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Exhaust repair This is how the silencers assembly came off the van -
The tin can and fire putty 'repair' to seal up the join had failed (if it ever worked anyway); not surprising really because once the front of the inter-pipe (pipe with holes in) becomes detached from inside the front silencer the back of the front silencer flexes all the time with taking all the strain and eventually fractures. The bits cleaned up - 
Failure of the tack weld on the front end of the inter-pipe where it meets the internal baffle in the front silencer is what has caused the problem. Re-assembled prior to welding - 
A seam weld all the way round wasn't hard to get right first time because the fracture in the front silencer was a clean break with no corrosion thinning the silencer end plate. Once that was done a length of 6mm rod got to be an external brace to replace the internal weld that failed - 
Note the clean spigot for the tailpipe for when the silencer is refitted to the van. Cleaning the inside of the tailpipe likewise makes fitting a lot easier and needs less fire putty to seal any leaks because it's got something to stick to. ---------------------- |
Sat 27 Feb 2010 @ 19:24
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