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Anon
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New member and shamless plug!


Hi All,

I don't have a CF, I run 2.3 Viva's which share the same engine.
I also run a small company called Gryphon Design and Manufacturing which I set up to re-manufacture some of the bits which are getting hard to come by.

Now I know this forum is here I will come and lurk a bit more often
:D

Steve.
GDM
http://www.gryphondesign.co.uk

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Mon 19 Jul 2010 @ 09:26 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi Steve

Welcome to the site.
I've already marked your website as a favourite in my browser.

I'd be very interested in the electronic ignition system, I've been looking for a suitable one for ages, and the one you do with the pc diagnostic looks just the ticket.

If we give you a list of parts,could you manufacture almost anything lol.
I can see you being kept busy just from this site.

spence

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Mon 19 Jul 2010 @ 10:44 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi Spence,

All wish-list items will be considered, but there are only so many hours in the day
Ignition systems are almost ready to roll, day job keeps getting in the way though

Steve.

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Mon 19 Jul 2010 @ 11:18 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi Steve,

Welcome to this Beddy site

Just wondered if you are achieving as new tollerances with the oil pumps for self priming ability, because doesn't some wear occur in the casing too?
Mon 19 Jul 2010 @ 12:59 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi Greg,

The floor of the pump is ground down slightly to take the oversized rotor and any pump with heavy side wall issues gets sleeved.
All pumps are pressure and pickup tested before they go out.

Steve.

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Mon 19 Jul 2010 @ 14:19 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Parts we can't get.

Hi GDM,

I hope you are going to do more than oil pumps but thats a good start, let me get this right, remanufacture.
Does this mean that we can send your company parts to be remanufactured.

Doug.

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Mon 19 Jul 2010 @ 20:41 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi Doug,

Anything which is hard to get hold of will tend to be an exchange service (oil pumps etc.), things which can be manufactured from new will be.
I am looking at many more things than just pumps but it all takes time.

Steve.

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Tue 20 Jul 2010 @ 08:46 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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oil pump

In your experience could you say what feeler gauge measurements would tell you a pump is past it?
ie inner/outer rotor, outer roter/housing, in old money.
Wed 21 Jul 2010 @ 23:10 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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The Haynes book of lies quotes 5-10 thou as the limit, I have seen pumps in the 30-40 thou range which still pickup eventually, it just depends where the wear is.

A feeler gauge often gives a false positive as it takes the gap between the highest points.
I tend to ignore the gauges, to look for wear you need to remove the end plate (screws are VERY tight, use the right sized screwdriver) and examine the rotor surfaces for wear and groves.

Also examine the surface of the end plate and the inner floor of the pump as these also degrade pickup and peak hot pressure.

Steve.

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Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 11:36 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Just a thought, can't a non return valve be designed to stop flow back to the sump to aid priming?
Fri 23 Jul 2010 @ 11:48 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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It could, but if it blocked shut then you lose the whole engine.
Not worth the risk!

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Fri 23 Jul 2010 @ 11:52 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Ahh, but the ingenious design wouldn't allow that:B to happen.:D

Any increase in pump life at low cost would be welcome.
Fri 23 Jul 2010 @ 13:16 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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The best way to improve pump life (and engine life) is to change the oil every 3000 miles and use good quality oil and Activ8

Steve.

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Tue 27 Jul 2010 @ 09:36 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Sound advice.

If you run a search here you'll find mixed opinion on oil additives.

What is your recomendation for a good quality oil then for the slant engine?
Wed 28 Jul 2010 @ 13:01 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Biggest problem with the slant engine is the oil pump & pick-up pipe O-ring seals that don't get on with some additives, in my experience those with a strongly detergent or flushing action. Although I'm not sure exactly how the seals are affected the end result can be the oil pump failing to prime with drawing in air past affected seals rather than oil up the pick-up pipe.

Activ8 however is in the class of EP additives that create an iron halogenide (complex halide) coating on component surfaces that can reach local contact temperatures of ~320C; below about 300C the additive remains inert.

Downside is that such coatings break down to carbon at higher temperatures but frequently changing the engine oil should take care of base oil degradation leading to poor lubricity & avoidable metal-metal contact.

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Wed 28 Jul 2010 @ 14:01 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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What he said

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Thu 29 Jul 2010 @ 09:14 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Cool Spark

Hi Steve, Have you finished the cool spark ignition Yet? can you post some photos.
Cheers Dave

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Mon 20 Sep 2010 @ 18:46 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Not yet

The day job keeps getting in the way.

Will post a mention as soon as it's ready.

Steve.
GDM

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Fri 24 Sep 2010 @ 19:16 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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